How to fit a garment – Introduction

When working with historic dress do not expect to find a mannequin or dress form that the ensemble will easily and naturally fit!

Some customisation will always be necessary, for example, a historic figure usually has a rounder waist than the modern, more natural oval shape. Shoulders are often less broad and more sloped than a modern figure.

For this reason, always begin with a form much smaller than the dimensions of your garment, that way you have control of the finished shape and size.

The bodice shown below has been assessed and conserved and is at the stage of an initial first fitting.

A green short-sleeved silk bodice with lines pointing to different areas with accompanying text saying what each area is. Top L-R: Extend shoulders; Raise and widen bust point. Bottom L-R: Support diaphram; and round off waist by padding tummy and hips

Bodice, 1844, maker unknown. Gift of JC Nicholls, 1958. CC BY-NC-ND 4.0. Te Papa (PC000034)

A side-on view of a silk bodice with text and arrows, Top L-R: Slightly round off back; Fill out bust to corseted shape and blend into the neckline. Lower L-R: Make sleeve supports; make curatorial/design decision how to finish visible mount areas below

Bodice, 1844, maker unknown. Gift of JC Nicholls, 1958. CC BY-NC-ND 4.0. Te Papa (PC000034)

A green silk bodice on a mountmaker's dummy

Finished Bodice, 1844, maker unknown. Gift of JC Nicholls, 1958. CC BY-NC-ND 4.0. Te Papa (PC000034)